Saat sedang melihat foto-foto Jakarta Fashion Week 2014, ada satu show yang menarik perhatian saya, show kolaborasi Oscar Lawalata dengan Yayasan Jantung Indonesia mengangkat tema “I am Indonesian”. Ada puluhan koleksi ready-to-wear yang ditampilkan di show itu. Kain-kain tradisional Indonesia seperti songket Bali dan tenun Nusa Tenggara diolah Oscar menjadi busana yang menarik, terlihat modern namun tetap menunjukkan jati diri Indonesia.
1. Saya tertarik dengan crop top yang ada di foto pertama ini. Bagi yang enggan membeli crop top karena takut menunjukkan sebagian kulit, perut, dan mungkin saja mengundang perbuatan yang tidak diharapkan dari orang lain, bisa kita lihat sendiri kalau crop top pun bisa dipakai secara sopan dan tetap terlihat modis dan bisa dikombinasikan dengan high-waist pants yang berwarna senada.
Jakarta Fashion Week 2014 (JFW) was a nesting ground of highly-anticipated shows, but the one show most revered among all others listed on the schedule was the Dewi Fashion Knights (DFK) show. Each year, Dewi magazine . This year, three members of the DFK old guard were selected to participate in the proceedings: Oscar Lawalata, Priyo Oktaviano, and Tex Saverio are joined by two new members who were “knighted” for this year’s show: Populo Batik and Toton.
Following selection, each label must adhere to a specific theme selected by DFK; this year’s theme just so happens to be Tale of the Goddess, and each designer was given the freedom to interpret that theme into the special collections they were presenting. We spoke to Dewi’s ultra chic Editor-in-Chief, Ni Luh Sekar, on how much creative freedom was granted to the designers, and for the reasoning behind the selection of Populo Batik and Toton into the fashion-elite fold. For further details on the interview and show highlights, check out the video below!
When you want the bar to be set high, you’d do well to kick things off with Oscar Lawalata. Going along with this year’s DFK theme, his personal interpretation of a goddess was a celestial being who quite literally descended from the stars. Titled My Name is Andromeda, this was a deceptively simple-looking collection, with the first sequence consisting of nothing but intricately-folded blacks and the second sequence a lot more varied in color (but less so in shape).
Through the mastery of geometric folding on meters and meters of black silk, he attempted to construct the beauty, personality, and intellect of Indonesian women in the absolute stunner that was the first sequence. The second set featured patchwork and a form of casting called moulage on tenun.
My Name is Andromeda was a very personal interpretation that celebrated the personification of the evolving perfection of Indonesian women as they hurtle towards the future without forgetting about the past. A profound message indeed, but the show was made even more memorable during the final looks walk at the very end, where it was revealed that the man himself had been hiding among his bevy of beauties while dressed in his own garb!
Day Five of Jakarta Fashion Week (JFW) was a particularly exciting one, with plenty of fully-packed shows. First off, check out our video coverage to see some of the excitemen that went down!
One of the shows I was most looking forward to on Day Five were the Cleo Fashion Awards (CFA). It has not only become one of my favourite shows at JFW, but it also carries deeper personal meaning for me. It serves as a reminder of how I become a writer for fashion-related pieces: I joined FD in April 2009 as a Beauty Editor on a freelance basis and it was in November that year that I wrote my first fashion piece, which was about CFA. This was way back when most of the shows were still occupied by senior designers and very few young local designers stepped foot on the runway. In fact, the idea of CFA was still so freshly brewed that it was held in the Fashion Atrium instead of the tent. It was the year that some of my favourite designers and labels like Klé, Geulis, Danjyo Hiyoji and Hunting Fields shared the same stage.
Since that day, the CFAs have never failed to deliver fresh stock of bright and talented local labels. Since snowballing in importance and relocating to the Fashion Tent, it has become one of the most anticipated (and packed) shows at JFW. Being part of the CFA has catapulted many labels into the spotlight. This year they only focused on two arenas: Most Promising Accessories Brand and Most Innovative Local Label.
The show opened up with last year’s winner Fréj and Identité‘s newest collections. I think this goes to show that the labels that have been chosen by CFA are not just great ones, but also capable of surviving in the business. It shows their continuation and where they are after the CFA: are they still alive and kicking as a brand and evolving in style? These labels are not one hit wonders.
If last year’s collection used the pencil as motif, this time Fréj channeled their creative stroke with paint brushes with the same precision in arrangements that stands up to their previous collection. Truth be told, from last year’s nominee for accessories, my heart flutters more for MOREANDMORE with their collection that fused acrylic materials with wood, stainless steel and titanium. But seeing where they are today, one year after the CFA and no new collection in sight, I can see why Fréj is included within the CFA hall of winners. They can differentiate between creating something that is innovative and true to them while creating another collection that will sell well in the market. Check out their more modest collections at The Goods Dept and you’ll see accessories that are more everyday-ready. That is how a brand can survive, by actually selling their creations!
Identité seems to be going strong with their sporty feminine DNA and majority black ensemble, which is my cup of tea. I’m won over by the black, so it’s safe to say that this simple collection has won me over.
Curious for this year’s CFA finalists? Click through to the next page.
Not only ready-to-wear collections for hijabers, JFW 2014 also provides stylish yet syar’i gown. Dengan mengusung visi mempersembahkan busana yang bergaya dalam segala kesempatan namun tetap syar’i, pilihan busana untuk bekerja, hang out, pesta, bahkan wedding gown ditampilkan oleh tiga desainer pada show bertajuk La Voyage (The Journey).
Tema grayscale dipilih Norma Moi, desainer sekaligus pemilik label busana muslim Hauri Collezione. Ia menampilkan busana kantor hingga pesta dalam perpaduan warna abu-abu dan hitam. Long dress dan long coat atau blazer motif herringbone berbahan semi-wool dipadu dengan rok lebar mendominasi rangkaian koleksi ini.