The Concept:

Artists are chaneling a dark desire for refined, lined and the most exquisitely intense kind of smoked-out stares. Inspirations range from Hitchcock to Helmut Newton to nasty girl gangs, but regardless of attitude, the application is always alert. Think “opening night” rather than “amateur night”.

Quotes:

Terry Barber “There’s a definite beauty to black eyes this season..it’s more considered less ‘next morning’…we’re shaping the eye with specifically considered structures, not just random blackness.”

Tom Pecheux “Move a Kohl formula around the eye to set the shape you want and then press powder into it for a waxen boot polished texture that lasts and isn’t too powdery.”

DSQUARED₂

Gordon Espinet “Black greasy eyes – LA girls..walk of shame makeup. It’s young Hollywood morning after the night before. She’s been caught by the paparazzi at 6am. Her makeup is melted yet perfect and gorgeous..”

Products

Eyes:

Greasepaint Stick in Black “smudged all over the lid for a basic black smear going on to start with…follow the natural shape of the girls’ own eye”

Pigmens in Blue Brown + Violet “layered on top of the greasepaint pencil so it still reads as total blackness on the runway but has more dimension and mess to it.”

Cheeks:

Sculpting Powder in Bone Beige + Shaping Powder in Emphasize “for a highly sculpted effect”

Lips:

Lip Erase + Lip Conditioner in Fuchsia Fix “applied in the centre of the mouth not so it looks like lipstick, just like you’ve got pink lips in the centre”

“Mess it up..mess it up! This needs to be a mess. Whenever you have it smeared enough, smear it a little more. It has to look absolutely not perfect”

Behnaz Sarafpour

Gordon Espinet “It’s not a made up look but it’s quite deliberately perfected..the girls look lime themselves but with liner”

Products

Eyes:

Eye Kohl in Smolder “drawn along the top and bottom lashlines and waterline…slightly smudged with a brush just to soften it. It’s a bit smoky but not elongated”

Eye Shadow in Carbon “blended into the lashline to set the kohl”

Skin:

Mineralize Skinfinish powders

Sculpt and Shape Powder in Emphasize to highlight the tops of the cheekbones”

Lips:

Pro Lip Erase “applied to moisturize lips”

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label

Pep Gay “Pamela Anderson in the late 80′s, early 90′s is the inspiration..the girls are in a gang and Pamela is the beauty icon and leader..an excess of makeup made beautiful”

Products

Eyes:

Eye Kohl in Smolder “as a solid black base to sculpt the eyes”

Mineralize Eyeshadow in Cinderfella “buffed over Smolder to form a shimmery blackness”

Pigment in Silver Fog

Liquid Liner in Bootblack

Technakohl Liner in Graphblack

Zoomlash Mascara in Fastblack

Skin:

Select Cover Up Concealer “as a foundation for a matte finish, using lighter shades to highlight and darker shades to contour cheekbones and temples”

Cream Colour Base in Mid-Tone Sepia to sculpt under the cheekbones”

Sheertone Blush in Pinch Me and Pink Swoon

Lips:

Cremestick Liner in Cushy “lining the lips for a razor sharp outline”

Pro Lip Erase in Dim “patted onto the centre of the mouth to contrast with the lip liner”